I was determined to get there and in March 2024 I was lucky enough to visit the white continent. The trip was booked more than a year out for good reason to take advantage of a good offer, to have plenty of time to save for the trip and to be as well prepared as possible to make the most of this very special experience.
The itinerary looked like this - 12 days on an expedition cruise to Antarctica starting and finishing in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I travelled with my 68-year-old mother on this adventure - a trip of a lifetime for both of us.
There is a lot of administration for this trip and rightly so as it is the most isolated location on earth. Requirements for the trip include a doctor’s medical assessment, a remote evacuation travel insurance policy and numerous other general travel documents and forms. Thankfully my mother and I are fit and healthy so going through the pre-trip medical was uneventful.
The logistics of connecting flights and accommodation took a little time to navigate but all of it fell into place with plenty of research, navigating flight schedules and aggregating costs. With the pre-trip planning complete and the packing for the extreme weather taking into consideration the minus temperatures of Antarctica and the hot, humid weather of South America, before we knew it, we were departing on our epic adventure.
The 16-hour flight from Australia to Argentina was tedious, but the anticipation of the adventure ahead made it exciting and helped the time pass quickly. We had a few days of sightseeing in Buenos Aires before we joined the tour and headed south. A charter flight took us to Ushuaia, Argentina dubbed the ‘end of the world’. Here we met the huge ship that would take us to Antarctica, the world’s southern-most continent.
Our ship, the MS Roald Amundsen was spectacular, built in 2019 in Norway. It is one of the high-tech, hybrid Hurtigruten fleet which cruise between the Artic and Antarctic reaches of the globe. With capacity for 530 passengers there were a lot less people on board due to it being the last sailing of the season.
The ship boasts 265 cabins, 3 restaurants, a gym, day spa, science centre, lecture space, explorer lounge and bar, observation decks, two hot tubs and a swimming pool. Add to this an amazing crew and expedition team who were ready and waiting to make this a trip to remember. Life on board this ship was not going to be hard to take.
Crossing the Drake Passage was the next leg of the journey, the world’s strongest currents and roughest seas. A trip to Antarctica certainly isn’t for the faint of heart!
The crossing certainly lived up to its reputation and nickname ‘the Drake Shake’. The crossing was very rough on day one it did ease on the second day but still a little bumpy. Seasickness medication is a must!
After participating in all the mandatory briefings and getting kitted up with our extreme weather gear we headed to the open deck hot tub. We were casually lazing about in was bubbling warm water enjoying the view out to sea and suddenly we saw a huge iceberg. We had finally made it to Antarctica!
Our first landing took place the following day at Damoy Point. Provided with a branded, bright red, water and windproof jacket and sturdy rubber boots heading to land was a process to prepare for.
The dressing process involved putting on 2 pairs of socks, long thermal underwear, thermal pants, waterproof pants, thermal singlet, long sleeve t-shirt, down jacket, beanie, neck gaiter and gloves plus the jacket and boots- 15 minutes later we were ready to make landfall.
After all the anticipation and preparation, the time on the ice was breathtaking. You feel so small totally immersed in a landscape like nothing else and surrounded by a silence that cannot be compared especially when broken by the whale song or squark of a cranky penguin.
The next 5 days were filled with spectacular shore landings, hikes on the ice, iceberg cruises, whale and seal sightings, penguin and bird watching, educational lectures and the most pristine and stunning scenery one can imagine.
The program changed daily and was subject to adjustments based on weather conditions and wildlife sightings. Despite this, there was hardly a moment to spare with the range of activities on offer both on and off the ship.
I even did the polar plunge at Deception Bay. Leaving all the layers of warm clothing on the shore and wearing just a swimsuit I waded into the 3-degree (Celsius) water for a few brief moments fully submerged. The dip was quick to avoid getting too much attention from the nearby curious seals!
After an incredible and unforgettable adventure our time exploring the white continent had come to an end. The return trip across the Drake Passage was surprisingly quite calm and aptly earned the title ‘the Drake Lake’.
The weather was clear with sunny skies and we were lucky to get a clear view of Cape Horn, the southern tip of Chile, as we returned back to Ushuaia. Safely back in harbour we bid farewell to the ship and the fantastic crew and headed to the airport to return to Buenos Aires, Argentina on a dedicated charter flight.
The trip to Antarctica exceeded expectations and left us with lasting memories, a greater appreciation of the fragility of the world's environment and education about what each person can do to preserve the beauty and wonder of the white continent.
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